Barbarian DaysRecommendations
About the book
"Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan is a captivating memoir that takes readers on a journey through the author's life as a surfer and writer. Finnegan's vivid storytelling immerses you in the world of surfing, exploring not just the thrill of catching waves but also the deeper philosophical reflections that come with it. Readers will find themselves enchanted by his experiences in remote locations, the struggles he faced, and the friendships he forged along the way. This book is not just for surfers; it's for anyone who appreciates a well-told story that delves into the complexities of life, passion, and the human experience. Finnegan's eloquence and wit make "Barbarian Days" a must-read, offering insights that resonate far beyond the ocean.The book comes highly recommended by a notable group of influential figures, including former President Barack Obama, venture capitalist Paul Graham, and entrepreneur Richard Branson. The consistent endorsements from leaders in politics, business, and media suggest that "Barbarian Days" resonates with those who value personal growth and exploration. This diverse group, including philosophers and media personalities, highlights the book's appeal across various fields, emphasizing its relevance to anyone seeking inspiration and a deeper understanding of life through the lens of adventure and introspection.
Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
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